The Großglockner – undisputed symbol of Austrian mountaineering dreams. The tour to its 3798m summit and the best known summit cross in the state is not just wide and high, it is technically demanding too and is therefore only the reserve of those who have Alpinist expertise. Many routes lead up to the top and there are many steep flanks to tackle on the way back down again.
Fulfil your dream…
… and climb up to the rooftop of Austria with us. You can choose between standard ascents, ridge ascents, or a tour through the impressive north face; your skill level and experience will determine the route you take. Local mountain guides and Großglockner experts take you under their wing and bring you safely up to the summit and back down again. Take your time and spend the night in an alpine lodge, the tour is too lovely to just tackle over one day.
Mountain of dreams
Many people know its outline, whether it is from various photo motifs featuring the St. Vinzenz pilgrimage church in Heiligenblut or from Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe with the Pasterze in the background. The fact is that Austria’s highest mountain brings in mountaineers from all over the world like a magnet. On 28th July 1800 it was tackled for the first time by the Klotz brothers, Pastor Horasch and a certain Mr. Stanig.
The path to tackling the summit …
… proceeds, for many people, via the standard route through Leitertal to the Salmhütte, which takes about 4-5 hours to get to. After a leisurely night, the route proceeds via the Hohenwarterkees and the west cliff flanks into the Hohenwarterscharte, continuing via the Salmkamp to Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte. From this point, it is a ‘mere’ 360 m altitude that now separate us and the summit, a route which is nonetheless tough. The level II route proceeds via fixed secured points to the 40° steep Glocknerleitl to the Kleinglockner and via the exposed Glocknerscharte up to the long sought-after summit cross.
Standard route, ridge or north face
The utmost in Alpininist expertise and plenty of experience is required to tackle the well-known ridge ascents and the north face. The majority of Glockner aspirants plan their ascent via the standard route from Heiligenblut or Kals, or via the Hofmannskees starting from Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe. With names like Melezkigrat, Stüdlgrat, Nordwestgrat, Pallavicini Rinne and the Mayerlrampe, real mountaineers will be crying with joy. Anyone who has it in them can look forward to Alpinist highlights.
The Alpine inns en route to the Glockner
Salmhütte at 2638m altitude is your support point if you want to tackle the Großglockner from the Heiligenblut side. Salmhütte is open from the middle of June until the middle of September and sleeps 50. The Stüdlhütte is at 2802m in the Fanatscharte and you can head there should you be heading to the Glockner from Kals. From the end of June until the middle of October there is space for 100 to sleep. The most important support point on the route to the top is Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte on the Adlersruhe at 3454m. The inn sleeps 120 from the end of June until the end of September, providing rest and relaxation before you make your way up to the summit.